The next row down is 'QST Center for trimming'. Flip the unit and repeat these trimming steps so that your QST equals the 'Trim to' size from the chart above. Repeat for the remaining three. Lay out the cut patches and stitched QSTs into rows making sure the 'star points' point to the outside edges of the block.
It's easy to get them switched! Did you notice the ones on the top and right are positioned incorrectly—double checking is faster than ripping! Stitch the units into rows and press with the SA s in the direction of the arrows. This is to reduce the bulk in the seams. Stitch the rows together and give your block one final press. Use our Best Pressing Technique to really get your patchwork wickedly flat! Quilters love to put their own spin on designs. Some change the fabric placement, others change the corner units or center.
And for this final variation, the Massachusetts quilt block , click the image to the right to find the instructions to make it. This first one resembles the design of our original Ohio Star quilt block, but this one is drawn on a 4x4 grid and looks more like a Sawtooth Star.
A completely different block, looking more like a LeMoyne Star except it uses rectangular parallelograms instead of true diamond shapes. You might be finished with this Ohio Star quilt block, but there's more blocks to be made. Just click the image below to find them. It's in color.
It's got a ton of blocks. What's not to love? Unlike the Maggie Malone book, the blocks in this volume are hand-drawn and in black and white—no color—personally, I prefer colored drawings to work with. BlockBase is the computerized version of the Encyclopedia. Lots of detail and in color, it is a beautiful volume. That said, I check it out of my local library on a regular basis instead of purchasing it—can you see the library sticker on it's spine.
Yep, it's from the Plainfield Public Library. But is it ok to then sell that quilt when someone sees it on your wall at work and begs you to sell it to her? This has happened a more than a few times to me. And is it ok to make them with the intention of selling them? Or to give them away for free?
Is it ok to change a pattern around and sell the quilt?
Step 1: Basic Quilting Definitions
I never seem to be happy with the exact way the quilt is made or looks in a book. I always do things a bit differently to suit me. I'm sure everyone does to some extent. But then is it ok to sell those quilts? I sell quilts all the time. I generally draft my own patterns and settings but I don't know if the ideas that I come up with are truly my own or something I saw somewhere sometime.
Judy Martin responds: This is going to be a long answer, but a good one! I can't speak for other designers or authors regarding copyright, and I am not a lawyer and can't give expert legal advice.
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My understanding is that as a legal right, a copyright holder could prevent you from selling quilts made from her patterns. As a practical matter, why would she want to? As regards my patterns, you can make as many as you want or can stand to make - it would get a little boring if you're keeping them or giving them away.
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You can make several on your own to sell. I don't mind a bit. I'd like you to identify the source of the pattern, but that's all. However, if someone were to turn the making of my patterns into a cottage industry, I would have to say, "Let's talk about this. The matter of changing a pattern around in order to make it yours depends on the extent of the change.
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Despite what some might tell you, there is no formula for such. If all you're doing is changing a blue quilt into a red one, that would be the equivalent of printing The Godfather in red ink and saying it's original. If you're turning inch blocks into 4-inch miniatures, but keeping everything else the same, that would be like a large print edition of a book.
Nothing is materially changed. If you're converting a pattern to paper piecing, that would be like changing the delivery method audiobooks vs. If you add a seam in order to avoid some tricky construction but don't alter the look, you haven't changed anything. I guess a good rule of thumb would be that if someone were to take a black and white photo of your block and the block that inspired it, would the two blocks seem different or would someone have to examine the pair closely to figure out what had been changed.
If the latter is the case, then it's not really different.
If designing original patterns were truly easy, everyone would do it. But they don't, meaning those who can design original patterns should be able to profit from their special skills. When the designer's copyrights are violated, it reduces the incentive to come up with new designs. In my case, this is how I earn my living. If I can no longer support myself from designing and writing, I'll have to go get a "real" job, and I won't be able to produce new designs.
To answer your question on that point, if the new pattern isn't really different from my pattern, you can still make several and sell them. I want you to use my books and patterns. And if it is different, you can make thousands of them! I hope this helps. Just because quilts are visual and text is not, doesn't mean the same rules don't govern them as creative property. They do. You're not alone in having questions. How do I make the first cut to straighten the edge before cutting my strips? I had read an article by you regarding cutting short strips along the lengthwise grain of the fabric.
I now have enough info to know that I really like the technique, but I am having trouble with my first cut on the fabric to straighten it before I start cutting my strips. I have pre-washed my fabric. Following your suggestion, I have also turned my cutting mat to the back. Here is my problem: With my selvage parallel to the bottom edge of the cutting mat, I am looking at an edge that shows the effects of being washed i.
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I have been putting the bottom of my ruler along the bottom of the cutting mat and laying it along the fabric to make the "straightening" cut on the fabric. I am just eyeballing the fabric as I try to lay it parallel to the bottom of the cutting mat. Cutting along the length-wise grain has really been helpful to me in the accuracy of my strips. However, I am stumped on the "correct" way to get the fabric straight as I begin cutting. Judy Martin responds: I'm glad you are sold on the lengthwise strip method.
You are right, the selvages often pull up miserably when you prewash. Don't worry about the placement of the fabric on the cutting mat. It is much easier to simply align the ruler and fabric. You don't have to align all three. I lay the line of the ruler along the selvage of the fabric and cut along the edge of the ruler.
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If the selvage has shrunk and the fabric is bowed, you may be able to cut only a few inches of the selvage off before you have to shift the ruler to realign it with the selvage. If this is the case, after making this trim, I press the fabric to flatten it and shave off a little more to make sure the line is straight and parallel to the grain line. Are there paper-pieced patterns available for the blocks in The Block Book? I realize not all can be done with foundation paper-piecing - but many, many can. They seem to be easier to do than the templates. It would be nice to have this already done so one doesn't have to take the time to chart out a copy from the template to the paper pieced pattern.
I love this book and would love to have paper pieced patterns wherever applicable. Better yet, I would buy a CD with them so that I could just print them out - and especially if the size were changeable. Actually, it'd be nice to be able to print the templates out on the computer from a CD as well. I thought I would check - in case! Thanks Sandi. Judy Martin responds: The short answer is, "No. I find regular piecing easier than paper piecing.